stuffing the front panel

 



Here you can see my LED mounting technique.  The wires are soldered to the LED, insulated with heat-shrink tubing, and then the LED is epoxied into place in the panel.  This will make it a little complicated if I need to change an LED (I tested them first); but given the slick surface of the aluminum, I expect I could pry the epoxy off relatively effectively if I need to (likely destroying the LED in the process).

You can also see, the last pot in the line, "presence", has to face sideways in order to fit underneath the wooden mounting bracket which goes nearby.



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

final interconnection, first power test

Image
Connecting the new circuitry to the VTX chassis.  Most connections are through the 12-position "Euro" terminal strip, except heater power (to the left) which is hard-wired. First power-up, with no tubes inserted.  LEDs ahoy!  This just verifies that the +15V power supply is working, and I haven't made any grievious errors in the wiring. I verified that the channel-select 3-way switch works, turning on and off the yellow and green LEDs on the VTX, and the preamp-select 3-way works, turning on and off the white LEDs (yes, those are white, not blue as they appear in the camera). And I verified that the HV supply works, by taking it out of standby and observing that the blue LED of the RGB pilot light illuminates.  (It's a bit dim with the 10M resistor though, I guess I need to decrease the resistance; gotta take care with the power dissipation...)
Read more

schematics of my mods

Image
  Again, caveats from the previous post apply here as well.  Most significantly, I have not yet built the boost circuit, nor even verified whether the VTX power transformer can handle the additional heater current load.  And some of the wiring of the phase inverter, vis a vis nfb, has not yet been implemented or tested.  So these circuits are to some extent, aspirational.
Read more